Holidays in Picos de Europa, Asturias & Cantabria, Northern Spain
Picos de Europa: Spain’s first National Park
Rivalling the Alps for mountain scenery, hiking opportunities and snow-topped peaks in winter, and yet only 20 kilometres from the Atlantic beaches of the Bay of Biscay, are the picturesque Picos de Europa.
Spain’s first and largest National Park comprises a superb mountain range largely shared between Asturias and Cantabria, and is an ideal choice for a natural experience and superb walking holidays in Northern Spain.
We pick out 3 special areas as being of interest to those holidaymakers who love their mountains, but who might like a day out on the coast, too.
They say that all roads in Asturias are interesting – but this one is definitely special.
South from Ribadesella or east from Oviedo, a truly marvellous route into the mountain heart of Asturias starts at Arriondas, bordering the Sierra del Sueve. The N-625 follows the River Sella to the old Asturian capital of Cangas de Onis, where you are already in the Picos and scenery of forest and mountain has taken over.
But there’s more to come. The salmon river and the road continue south, passing up through a gorgeously verdant valley.
At Precendi, by which time you already feel that you have entered another, more natural, world and time, try a brief detour to little Sames (pop.71) in its enchanting setting.
You now come to Ponga and one of the highlights of the Picos de Europa, yet one which is off the beaten track to most people.
The Desfiladero de los Beyos is a mountain defile that brings you mile after mile of unspoilt splendour.
To your left, hidden behind the steep sides of the gorge, wooded with beech, yew, maple and oak are the high peaks of Picos de Europa. To your right, Ponga Natural Park is a forested mountain wildness where deer and wild boar are prevalent, otters and muskrats indicate the health of running waters, and the elusive brown bear finds a refuge from inquisitive human eyes.
The immense Peloño Forest here is a privilege to set off and walk through. One of Europe’s foremost mature beech woods with over 200,000 trees, mountain views and rivulets, it is home to chamois, roe deer and wolf, as well as being one of the most important habitats of the rare capercaillie.
A walk through the green shade of these woods is a limpid, luminous experience. In Celtic mythology, the beech symbolizes elegant, practical people, and is related to the mother god and fecundity.
If you want to carry on, you can. The road snakes on, always through impressive mountain scenery, passing eventually all the way into the province of León.
Did you know? The name “Peaks of Europe” is said to have been give to the mountain range by sailors returning home from the Americas. The high peaks would have been their first sight of land on the old continent.
Seaside from Ponga In the opposite direction, the favourite destination for those seeking the sea is the port and fishing town of Ribadesella. The River Sella has its estuary here and a beach of note is that of Guadamía, in the village of Cuerres.
Another memorable excursion from Cangas de Onis goes into the Picos de Europa at Covadonga.
In just 20 minutes you find yourself at the cave tomb of King Pelayo, whose victory here over the Moors in 722 AD halted the spread of Islam in the north, and marked a turning point for the Christian reconquest of Spain. There’s a sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is understood to have sponsored the victory.
But this is by no means the end point of the trip! From here, a road climbs high up to the uncanny atmosphere of the glacial lakes, Enol (1,070 m) and Ercina (1,108 m).
The destination is so popular during the summer that cars are restricted and a bus takes visitors up from 12 parking zones along the route. You can also take a bus directly from Cangas de Onis.
Well known for the Asturian blue cheese of the same name, the Cabrales area in the central Picos de Europa is the most popular with Spanish visitors, who tend to flock here on Bank Holidays and the busy summer months.
If your enjoyment of a spectacular natural environment may be compromised by throngs of other people, you might prefer Ponga or the Liebana, where holiday accommodation is often more satisfactory, also.
Having said which, the walking route from Puente Poncebos to Cain along the Cares Defile – “the one everyone does” – is justifiably celebrated.
To get there, take the AS-114 from Cangas de Onis, mentioned earlier and drive east, or the same road from Panes and drive west. Either way will take you to the area’s focal point, Arenas de Cabrales. From there, it’s 15 minutes by road up to Puente de Poncebos, where day-trippers have a choice of the funicular to Bulnes or the 5 to 6-hour round trip on foot to Cain.
The route to Cain goes through the gorge, along tunnels carved into the rock, by the water, over bridges. You won’t get lost: the path is well worn and there are always other people doing the same thing. There are some abrupt drops, but it is not hazardous as long as you wear sensible footwear and ensure you don’t get dehydrated.
Bulnes is one of the few villages in Spain without road access. It’s a very pleasant walk, which you can do in reverse, after taking the 7-minute trip to Bulnes on the funicular railway through a tunnel bored into the rock.
Seaside from Cabrales It’s possible to drive fairly directly north on the AS-115 to Posada de Llanes and from there to beaches and the fishing town of Llanes, well worth a visit in its own right.
This is one vast depression that will lift your spirits. The natural geological bowl surrounded by limestone peaks, with the capital at Potes in the eastern Picos de Europa, makes the Liébana into a very exciting destination.
The gigantic mountain hollow is sheltered from the wind systems that bring rain higher in the mountains and the few degrees of extra warmth can be very welcome in Spain’s north. The Liébana is the only region in the Picos where it’s warm enough to produce wine.
The climate may be mild but the beauty is extreme. Jagged mountains, rivers and the meeting of four magnificent valleys in green swards of meadow. You won’t see bears here – they keep to remote outposts in the high mountain – but you may go by herds of ibex and will certainly see birds of prey, such as the Egyptian vulture.
The villages are small and pretty and walking opportunities are almost endless. It’s a real rambler’s paradise. Holiday accommodation tends to be offered in apartments which we think rather defeats the spirit of the place and Rustical Travelprefers to offer only traditional (but comfortable) stone-built cottages in the more interesting rural and walking locations.
There are few roads and it’s easy to get around. Potes (pop. 1,500) is the regional attractive capital and the tourist hub for backpackers with its cafés, shops and offers of activities such as river rafting, climbing, mountain biking and paragliding.
A popular day out takes you to Fuente Dé and the cable car up into the high mountains. Not for the faint-hearted, it climbs up to double the altitude to 1,450 metres, but then drops you off to contemplate an extraordinary panorama of the National Park.
Local culture is expressed in the traditional mountain architecture of the Picos de Europa: modest but soundly-built stone buildings.
The major edifice of the regions without doubt is the Monastery of Saint Toribio near Potes, whose prize exhibit is the Lignum Cruce, said to be the largest single surviving piece of the True Cross. Who knows? When Madrid’s Forestry Research Institute carried out tests in 1958, it determined a possible age of 2,000 years and a composition of Mediterranean cypress, common to Palestine. The Monastery opens to visitors every day.
As everywhere in Cantabria and neighbouring Asturias, expect to eat heartily and well. The people are proud of their gastronomy and will make sure you don’t leave the table hungry. The local Liébana “cocido,” or stew, will set you up nicely for an afternoon’s ramble.
To get here, take the N-621 south from the northern coastal highway (E-70 / A-8 / N-364) at Unquera and drive this attractive route for 50 minutes following the River Deva.
Seaside from Liébana A simple drive back the N-621 brings you back to the coastal highway where we recommend the impressive fishing town of San Vicente de la Barquera and the fantastic beaches of Oyambre Natural Park.
Travel information for Picos de Europa The northern coastal highway (E-70 / A-8 / N-364) runs between Asturias Airport (near Aviles) in the west and Cantabria’s Santander Airport and ferry port in the east. It’s approximately 100 km from either direction.
From this highway, two main roads lead south to Picos de Europa: in the west, the N-634 and in the east, the N-621.
Other options for international arrivals with flight + car hire are Bilbao, Valladolid and Madrid.
Self-catering accommodation We visited a number of holiday villas and rental cottages both in and close to the Picos de Europa and selected a very few which we felt confident would satisfy our discerning clients. Here they are:
